Good Cosmetic Ingredients for Menopausal Skin
There are several categories of cosmetic ingredients beneficial for menopausal skin care.
Moisturising water magnets, such as hyaluronic acid, glycerine, carrageenan, Chondrus crispus extract, gluconolactone, etc.
Fatty acids and lipids from organic oils, such as evening primrose, apricot, olive, macadamia, sweet almond, argan, borago, canola, meadowfoam, sunflower and sesame oils. Don’t forget rich substances, such as shea butter, squalane, cocoa and in some cases coconut butter. Ceramides and mineral oil can be beneficial too.
Prebiotics and probiotics, namely alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, inulin, bacterial ferments and lysates (Alteromonas filtrate, lactobacillus lysate, saccharomyces, etc).
Antioxidants, such as resveratrol (especially), its new more effective version, metabiotic resveratrol, green tea, aloe barbadensis, rosemary and wild carrot extracts, vitamins E and C, beta-carotene, etc.
Remodelling ingredients, agents that actively stimulate the syntheses of proteins and hyaluronic acid, such as EGF and other growth factors, plant stem cells, peptides (Matrixyl-3000, Rigin, Syn-TC).
Calming and anti-inflammatory ingredients: centella asiatica, aloe barbadensis, green tea, calendula officinalis, chamomile extracts, panthenol, peptide Skinasensyl, Albatrellus ovinus and some other fungi extracts.
Microcirculation and capillary-strengthening ingredients: niacinamide (vitamin B3), caffeine, horse chestnut extract, escin.
Skincare Ingredients to Avoid during Menopause
Any ingredients potentially increasing skin sensitivity in general and specifically to UV, damaging barrier function and leading to dryness should be avoided. Many of those are actually beneficial in a variety of ways, such as improving renewal process, lightening pigmentation, reducing wrinkles and even restoring skin elasticity to an extent. However, the side effects of regular application of retinol (a classic anti-age ingredient) and alpha-hydroxy acids can outweigh the benefits of skin care through menopause.
Some lucky women blessed with beautifully resistant skin without tendency to dryness and irritation would definitely benefit from intensive treatments. However, most of us will find these too aggressive. Fortunately, today we can find effective substitutes for most harsh ingredients. Retinol and its derivatives can be substituted by Bakuchiol, a natural ingredient with similar benefits and none of the side effects. Stimulating and remodelling effects can be achieved with the application of remodelling peptides, stem cells, remodelling factors, coenzyme Q10 and new epigenetically active ingredients, such as teprenone/geranygeranylacetone and Undaria pinnatifida extract, even niacinamide and metabiotic resveratrol. New acids, namely lactobionic acid or gluconolactone, as well as lactic acid can help restore the skin’s healthy pH without sensitising it.