Why We Don’t Have (And Won’t Ever Have) a Men’s Range
by Dr Tiina Meder
Meder Beauty Science is not offering special skincare for men. Nor are we ever going to. Is this because we are so radical that we refuse to acknowledge scientifically proven and visibly evident differences between male and female skin? Well, no. And before you ask, no we don’t hate men either!Sure, men’s skin is not quite like female skin in many aspects, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that men require their own special skincare. How so? Let’s look into this closer.
What is it that makes their skin different?
- It is thicker than female skin by about 25% and firmer. Male hormones, androgens, make the skin’s deeper layers, the dermis, firmer and bulkier. So, a man’s skin usually looks a bit rougher, but at the same time more resilient and elastic.
- Men’s skin has more collagen, sorry ladies. Collagen is a key protein of the deeper skin layers, responsible for the skin’s tone and elasticity. This is why men often look younger than their age. However, collagen can be destroyed by multiple external impacts, such as UV. Many men neglect sunscreens and routine skin care losing their natural advantage.
- Generally, men and women both lose the same amount of collagen with time, about 1% a year. However, since men have their advantage at the starting point, their skin starts showing signs of ageing later than women’s, by some measurements 8 to 10 years later, ladies!
- Men sweat almost twice as much as women, which is hardly news to anyone. But this is in fact a good thing, as sweat contains a lot of lactic acid which helps retain moisture on the skin surface and maintain sufficient acidity. So, men’s skin is more moisturised and better protected.
- Alright, guys don’t have everything working for them 100%. Men’s sebaceous glands produce more sebum, as this process is actually regulated by testosterone, the amount of which is much higher in men. So, they are more prone to acne and rosacea in men is more severe too.
- Does this make you feel a little better about gender inequality? Here’s some more. The keratinous layer of male skin is thicker and contains more keratin, making the skin look rougher, patchier and without regular care darker and weathered, too.
Men have it easy as it is.
- Men don’t need their own special skincare, all they need is to know which few solutions would do them good and use those routinely.
- In caring for men’s skin exfoliation is key. Men can use peelings more often than women, ideally twice a week. Regular exfoliation will help maintain healthy complexion and skin softness avoiding weathered look.
- As many men shave regularly, it is very important to support their struggling microbiome. Our microscopic friends living on the skin surface can easily turn into enemies as a result of almost unavoidable microinjuries during shaving. And you don’t want your microbiome to rise against you and fire up inflammation, irritation and other unpleasantness. So, my advice would be to choose microbiome-friendly aftershaves with prebiotics.
- Men really do need less skincare. Feel free to skip nourishing creams and concentrates and leave them to women. A light cream with some calming and prebiotic ingredients will suffice.
- Sunscreens are a must for all genders.
- If a man has actual aesthetic concerns, like deep lines on the forehead or bags under eyes, does he need a special, more effective solution? No, not really. If he takes my advice and exfoliates religiously, he can apply women’s (gender-neutral) stuff with just the same effect. The ingredients will be able to penetrate into the skin, provided that the excess of dead cells is removed from keratinous layer by peeling. Obviously, this is true for quality products. There is plenty of cosmetics out there that wouldn’t work on anyone.
- Finally, men need to cleanse their skin every day, same as women and — you guessed it — with the same solutions women do. No need to waste time looking for a special cleanser for men. Many men actually wash their face with shaving soap, and you know what — if it doesn’t cause any discomfort, tightness and irritation, I wouldn’t stop them.
- Enzy-Peel Mask for enzyme exfoliation twice a week.
- Derma-Fill Prebiotic Cream to calm the skin, help heal microinjuries, prevent pigmentation and irritation. You can use it after washing your face or shaving, morning and night.
- If you don’t like washing your face with shaving foam/gel or soap, your skin may be sensitive. Get Net-Apax Prebiotic Cleanser and use it instead of soap twice a day.
- If you have bags under eyes, get an eye cream to improve microcirculation in the eye area, Blepharo-Light Cream, and apply it to the skin around the eyes, morning and night. Tip: store it on the fridge door and apply cool, it feels great.